Border between elegance and kitsch in men’s fashion
Made to wear tailored pieces for men are mainly oldfashioned. This type of tailoring is closer to the classics, and even closer to historical fashion, than to contemporary fashion. Made to wear tailoring is very different from clothing from chain stores. There are also collections of clothing from ready-to-wear brands which care about high quality and very good materials.
It could be argued that men’s made to wear fashion comes close to haute couture. All designs are tailor-made for a particular client, often with excellent and hand-picked fabrics and paying attention to the ideal fit to the man’s figure, as well as the execution and finish. There is not only strict criteria to evaluate seasonal collections, but also prices start at a lower level (because tailors use good, very good, and luxury fabrics, whereas haute couture uses only luxury fabrics). Quality, durability, and price cause most men to choose classic and timeless shirts, suits, and coats. However, sometimes clients who expect a different design – something more fashionable and avantgarde – come to a tailor’s studio.
Emphasizing your own style or personality can be achieved with discreet details in the trimming, as well as suitable additions that are harmonious with the whole outfit. These additions could be a tie, handkerchief or even shoelaces. Usually that’s not enough for clients who expect something even more distinct or special from the tailor’s studio, but who still don’t want something to cross the border between original and kitschy.
It depends on the client and the tailor advising him if a gaffe is committed or not. The purpose of the clothing and the occasion it will be worn for must be taken into consideration. In some cases we can present the client’s colorful style and emphasize their artistic personality, whereas with others we will want to emphasize our professionalism or class.
Classic men’s fashion for special occasions consists of a tuxedo made from black, smooth wool and with silk lapels and stripes. Such a tuxedo would be worn with a white cotton shirt and black patent shoes, with a black silk bow tie and cummerbund, as well as black cuff links and silk knee-socks, which is perfectly suited to every type of evening gala.
A black tuxedo that is well-fitted to the body (that is, slim-fit) or a tuxedo with a delicate structure or a navy blue tuxedo are fashionable variations on the tuxedo, but will still be linked to good style and are suited for a young friend’s wedding or for an artist receiving an award.
A blue velvet tuxedo should never exist and never be worn, except maybe at a masquerade. It is very important to know the principles of men’s fashion. A lack of knowledge can result in a social or professional gaffe. A good advisor and tailor will also work.
Many men are choosing higher quality items, including clothing and shoes. They buy fewer items, paying attention to the quality and the materials used.
Another group who buy tailor-made suits are the experts and connoisseurs of beautiful things, classic fashion, high-quality fabric and execution, a good fit to the body, comfort, personalization, and all other conveniences that go with sewing for a specific person. There are also men with unusual figures who are difficult to dress appropriately when there are only ready-made clothes available.
Authors: Marek Buczyński, Oksana Lodkowska
Buczynski Individual Tailoring